Wellfleet was cold nasty and beautiful Sunday. The tavern path through the dunes was mostly frozen solid. The swamp was arid or icy and the pine woods covered in inches of snow. That lovely crunch and crisp antiseptic air combined with a view of the cold and wrinkled ocean to make us feel we were on a new planet. The exquisite lonely feeling of winter is a rare treat on the Cape…And it was all but virgin to us. Some other explorer had caught the path, led us to the edge of the ocean–quite a drop to contemplate–and led us out again. The cold was seeping in; the wind more persistent and mindless than a campaign ad; the car safe in the empty parking lot was a welcome sight.